Thursday, July 5, 2012

Last week in Berlin


The next morning after our adventure to the North involved us going to see the housing projects built during the IBA in the 50s. These large buildings were designed in a modern style and created to house large numbers of people after the war. The first building was designed by a French architect and was made to be a self-contained community. Its floors are called streets and you can ride bikes down them. They are also all made to match one another so that you can combine one or two to get bigger apartments. The building is not that attractive, with carved men and random color bits on the windows to try and make it look halfway interesting. But the idea is an amusing one and the people who who gave us a tour live there and seem to love it. They’ve done a little remodeling inside and combine a few apartments. They were extremely nice and let us into their home for our tour.


                Later we went to what I was told was somewhat equivalent to our Chamber of Commerce. The building was designed to look very mechanized. We were only allowed in certain areas but I liked the elevators.

                We saw an old church which was mostly destroyed but it still preserved in it’s damaged standing condition and the added new church in a modern style. We couldn’t really see the old church since they were doing some sort of work on it and had the entire outside hidden, but we were able to go inside and see a bit of what used to be. Then we went on into the new church which is actually very pretty for a modern church.


                Tuesday morning was our trip to the dutch embassy which is a pretty cool building. It has a lot of symbolic meeting. Things like stairs being too steep on purpose because that’s a cliché dutch thing apparently. Also all of the rooms open up in some small way to another room. They have a green glass floor along one hallway which is a lot of fun. We also learned about how they have to have housing due to the regulations in that area and so they have apartments for employees. There is a straight view through the building from the river to the television tower in Alexander Platz which is pretty cool. Apparently no one is allowed to build anything which will obstruct this view.

                After that we headed over to Alexander Platz for lunch which has this awesome thing in it.

                Then we had a look around at the housing complexes in the East, in answer to the IBA in West Berlin. There buildings are not terribly exciting.



                Then we walked along Karl Marx Allee which shows off the nicer portions of East Berlin, the face they would present to the foreign press.

                We continued the Soviet train of class with a trip to the Soviet Memorial and discussion of the Cold War. The memorial is massive and still standing. A lot of work has been done to preserve the past, even the unhappy past. There is a massive statue in the center which shows a soviet soldier holding a child and crushing a swastika under his boot. This was their idea of the time, communists as defeaters of the Nazis. No mention of the horrible oppression they themselves committed.

                Tuesday night Liz, Emily, and I went to a Metric concert at the Postbahnhof. The venue was cool, the band, as usual, was great. They played most of the songs I love by them and some new things. I was really glad they were great live. We also discovered this fascinating thing at the venue: a vending machine for shoes. It dispenses little shiny pair of flats so that when your heels start to hurt you can just change! It was adorable.
                 Wednesday was Berlin Wall day. We started the day at Check Point Charlie and continued on to the Berlin Wall Memorial where a section of the “death strip” is still preserved. The Checkpoint Charlie Museum was extremely interesting and informative but horribly laid out. There is just not enough space for all of the cramped exhibits and people they allow into that tiny building. But that aside, there is a ton of information on the beginnings of the political beginnings of the cold war and lots of crazy escape methods and stories from real people attempting to circumvent the wall and the law. This literally includes tunnels, hot air balloons, scuba gear, flying machines, and fake passports. Most of these handmade.



                The Wall Memorial was just as interesting focusing on the actual layout of the “Wall.” This actually consisted of an inner wall, barbed wire, dogs, areas of metal spikes on the ground, big barriers to stop cars, trip wires which signaled guards, the guards themselves, trip wires which automatically fired guns, bright lights to keep everything like daylight all night long, and finally the outer wall--what people saw from West Berlin.  The complexity of it all was staggering.

                There were also markers showing where both escape tunnels were and where the Stasi dug their own slant-wise tunnel to cut them all off.


                Thursday our group did a split and some went to Dresden to look at architecture while others of us stayed in Berlin to hit a few more museums. We began in the Berlin museum. It was small and to the point, with a few videos of really interesting footage of the Berlin Wall era.
(Model of the Royal Palace)

(The Humboldts, began Humboldt University)

(sets designed by Schinkel)

(Awesome picture of the young emperor in a dress with a sword)

                Next we finished out museum island by going to the Bode Museum. It contained an extensive collection of Medieval and Renaissance art from Western Europe into Byzantium. It also contained a massive Canadian coin minted a few years ago worth one million dollars which I still do not understand. This coin was the one point of confusion in an otherwise very interesting coin collection. Another cool exhibit was a small case which showed the step by step process of making a cast bronze statue. There were a lot of interesting and beautiful and weird art pieces, worth the trip.



(don't blink)
(Artemis)

St. George's Portal

(Giant Canadian Coin)

(St. George's arm reliquary)

                Our last activity of the afternoon was to wander into the New Synagogue. Called “New” in that it was built after the “Old Synagogue.” The New Synagogue itself was build in the late 1800s and was mostly destroyed in World War II. It was set on fire doing the November Pogrom but a local police force actually put it out, apparently against all orders, so it suffered less damage than it might have. After the war it was repaired enough to make a small museum of local Jewish history which I found fascinating. It talked about schools, hospitals, and businesses built and run by the Jewish community before the war. There is also a small but beautiful dome we were able to go up into. But it is definitely prettier on the outside.


                Tonight will be the Germany vs. Italy soccer game, both very good teams. We will be out in the Tiergarten again cheering on our temporary home team!
6/26/12

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